Barbara Öhlzelt is turning the region’s paradigm completely on its head. Instead of the unctuous, powerful and masculine wines of the famous large estates, Barbara’s wines emphasize focus and a quiet, simmering intensity. Her wines are fine, clearly delineated, precisely-etched renditions of Grüner Veltliner with just as much depth and persistence as the big boys, but on a lighter, more refreshing frame. These are racy, delicate wines of purity and energy, and are exactly what the next chapter in the story of Austrian wine should be.The Zöbinger Gruner Veltliner is Barbara’s village-level wine, sourced from younger vines in vineyards scattered around her hometown of Zöbing.