The Mosel River begins in Alsace but spends most of its time running north through the Lorraine, the ignored little-brother of Alsace. This is the homeland of rosé, here called “Vin Gris.” For those looking for wines of finesse and delicacy, this is a thrilling region and there is no one better than the young Camille Migot: all hand-harvested, certified organic, all wild-yeast fermentations, no chaptalization. The Vin Gris is the calling card of the region, layered rosé that carries the nervous energy of the north.